THE ORRONOCO AUDIO DIY

It is about last year I finished this tube DAC AD1865 using high-performance USB input from JLsound USB receiver module, but somehow, this project was burry in my photo archive, so, I think I will reveal it now. This project starting after my previous DAC project using the same 6DJ8 tube in SRPP configuration as gain-amplifier at the DAC output stage. This SRPP circuit is proven to work best with DAC as gain stage and I've made the best sounding tube DAC  here , at that time with PCM1704 high-performance 24-bit multibit DAC. Although in this project I will use different DAC IC, but one lesson for the key success for good sound is the components selection and individual component upgrade that most of the time will cost more than the whole initial DAC build itself. Fast forward to this DAC build, I will build almost the same DAC but with few different approach. Please continue reading.

If we align our perception in term of vintage resistor-to-resistor (R2R) ladder DAC, it is specific to the over the shelf DAC like Burr-brown and Analog Device DAC. In their golden years of vintage multibit DAC around 80's to 90's, only those two manufacture built DAC IC in this R2R configuration. Philips with TDA1540, TDA1541 and TDA1543 is Dynamic Element Matching DAC, which is also multibit, but different in the internal configuration compare to the R2R DAC. I am pretty sure in those golden era, lot's of money spent in their R&D to achieve the best R2R multibit DAC, starting from PCM53, 54, 56, 58, 61, 63, 1702, 1704 and AD1856, 1861, 1862, 1865. Those DAC exists before this audio industry force them to shift to the more economic and easy to build DAC, it is the Delta Sigma DAC. Fast forward today, audiophile still believe that vintage multibit DAC sound superior to Delta Sigma DAC (hey, it's me:). Moreover, the Delta Sigma DAC is not become a true single bit any...

As a  do it yourself  in audio system, finding the sweet-spot is more exciting and challenging at the same time. This is because you can do by yourself, to match between the components and upgrade the audio system based on what you think they will be improve. There almost no limit in this action, only self-satisfaction and at one point, enough is the finish line. I have made many DAC before. I know how to make a DAC that will be sound marvelous, or just right. And I have them all. The problem now is the other chain in my audio system need to maximized like what I did with the DAC. So, in this post, I shared my listening session activity, changing and replacing DAC, set up the room, and tuning speaker cross-over (again), which all of them are the culprits to finding the sweet-spot.

TDA1543 is a miniature and economic DAC which is the only vintage multibit DAC to use single-rail supply, make it simple to use in the portable circuit. It is stereo 16 bit DAC with popular I2s input format. The nominal voltage supply is 5 volt, but with the tolerance can be supply up to 9 volt maximum, makes this DAC can use passive IV with up to 1.5 K ohm resistor to generate undistorted high voltage line output. With this possibility, no wonder this IC never vanished from the DIY audio popularity. From of my previous TDA1543 DAC project, unfortunately this DAC never sound good for me. I am so curious and never stop experimenting to make this DAC sound better. Finally, I can stay with this TDA1543 DAC with few points that need to be addressed. In this post, I will share the steps that I have tried, which makes this TDA1543 sound good, having its own sound signature which can compete with others high performance DAC.

Since last year, I have been focused on building my own tube amplifier, especially using 300B tube in the single-ended configuration. I got more enjoyable moment when listening music through the tube amplifier instead of solid-state amplifier, especially with the 300B tube amplifier. The sound is more musical, more engagement to the music, and human voice alike compare with the solid-state amplifier. Previously, I also had experience using others tube such as 2A3, KT88, 6L6 and EL34, but I still believe the 300B is a holy grail of all tubes, so I stick to this choice. 300B tube is  direct-heated tube (DHT) , meaning this tube heater also act as the cathode. In the single-ended amplifier, using DHT tube will potentially contribute the hum to the speaker. This is because the power supply voltage along with the noise feed into the heater tube and direct impact to the cathode itself. Annoying hum needs to take care. I took so many lesson when building several 300B amplifier before...

This is the following post regarding building the miniaturized DAC that should sound good, just like full-size desktop DAC. But the difference is in the small chassis. The reason for this is because in my opinion, a DAC unit is not to be shown as the main show unit in the audio system. So let it be hidden somewhere else at the back of the system and let the tube amplifier, speaker and source player as the part of the main show in the audio system. In this post, I will make another DAC using the components that what I have left in my bin. I think in this post, the description will be more in technical. I will try to explain the building concept for the good sounding DAC based on my experienced. This build will be more complex, harder to follow for beginner, but for some reason, I just want to do it. So, let's begin for this AD1865 miniaturized DAC build.

It is been a while I am out of making a DAC. I am enjoying what I have right now and just listening the music through my audio system. My audio system is consisting of the 300B amplifier and DAC that sitting next to it. I was thinking that the DAC not the main unit to be shown, but the 300B is. The DAC is basically a simple and plain box that convert the digital to analog. I look at many commercially available DAC and they are all physically look the same. Many of them have only LEDs to indicate the sampling rate, inputs, and operation status. Few of them have their own LCD to show the same things like LEDs but in more fancy display. if we're honest to ourself, that display or LEDs indicator are not really important, especially when we listening to the music and enjoy it. So, I want to try something new in this DAC project. The things that more universal and easier to use, rather than a bulky DAC box unit. This DAC project should be small enough to hide away from the main show of t...

Since end of last year, my focus on this DIY audio is more on 300B tube amplifier. This kind of tube amplifier is well known as a holy grail of sound, and it is true. Then I remember I have one DAC project that need to be complete. It is the PCM58 DAC using the PCB ordered from PCBway.com. You might want to refresh the PCM58 DAC PCB that I mentioned in  here  and  here , those post are the first time I ordered the PCB from PCBway.com and that was the easy and enjoyable order experienced. So, let's begin this project.

Looking to this 300B amplifier built, it was designed with similar philosophy of Luxman MQ-300. The driver stage is 6SN7 tubes configured in parallel for higher current output, lower impedance and distortion. Instead the original Luxman MQ-300 using total 2-stages amplification in the driver stages, I only use a single stages. The reason for this is because the limitation in the chassis spaces. The sound quality for this 300B amplifier using a single stages 6SN7 in parallel is actually meet my expectation, but the gain is quite low. My listening loudness is around 55 to 70 dB maximum, not too loud, and the volume level position around 12 to 3 o'clock for 3-volt output from the source. This might be an issue for someone who looking for the gain, but for me this is still acceptable. The main issue for this amplifier is actually with the sound quality depend with the source level output. I am using my own built DAC or few commercially available source and not all of them can produce 3...

Welcoming this year, I always hope that this 2026 will be blessed with joy and happiness, with all things we are doing, we doing with fun and excitement. For the past week, I actually got flu and not really into this hobby for quite long time. But I was concerning to revisiting this newly built amplifier again. Is not 100% complete, few things need to change and add to suit my sound preference. So, here it is. The new updates for this 300B amplifier.

This 300B amplifier build is coming far earlier than expected. This amplifier build was initiated around 6 months ago. Then it starting from sourcing the major components such as the amplifier case, tube sockets, resistors, capacitors and the tubes itself. All of them are mostly imported and with a long waited, they've just arrived two weeks ago. The other key components such as output transformer, power transformer and choke required a week to custom made based on this 300B amplifier schematic and idea. It is very common when building an amplifier from a scratch like this, there is an issue appears after it complete. Most common issue is the hum. This annoying hum can ruin my time to troubleshoot it. Especially when building 300B amplifier, hum is mostly present at the speaker output. But this project is different. This 300B amplifier is finished without the annoying hum issue. This amplifier working like a charm since the first time it powering ON. And the sound is really good.

I am visiting this Luxman LXV-OT7 clone for the finishing touch. From the time this amplifier project finished, some of the parts are using what I have left in my bin. This amplifier is working fine but just not perfect. So, after my imported components came last week, I start to open this amplifier again. Those components that need to replace are RCA female plugs and potentiometer.

Here we go for tube amplifier again! I have this Elekit TU-8900 amplifier for a short time before I sold it. I was enjoying the music with this amplifier for quite a while, and I can say this amplifier is powerful enough to drive my 86 dB sensitivity speakers with lots of dynamic and bass slam. This Elekit TU-8900 is popular because it is the cheapest 300B or 2A3 amplifier that still made in Japan. This amplifier was coming as a kit, meaning you should install it by your own with the included manual and all parts scattered. Since I bought it second hand, it is assembled from the previous owner already. In this post, I don't think I would add the same review again because you can find many good reviews about this amplifier everywhere. What I will share to you is actually there are few components that can be easily upgrade for the better sound. Let's check it out.

This new amplifier build is a clone from the original Luxman amplifier kit that was sold in Japan. This kit was came as bundled with the magazine, it is the Luxman LXV-OT7, a hybrid amplifier using tube as an audio buffer and a stereo IC amplifier. The power output from this amplifier is small, just 3 watt per channel at 8-ohm, but good enough to drive my 88 dB sensitivity speaker. The tube is use for audio buffer before the amplifier and this what makes this amplifier looking good and sound special. I make this clone with all components packed in a small amplifier case. Of course, with the improvement on the power supply section that has direct effect to the sound improvement. Let's check the build.

For more than two months, I never listen the music on my system anymore. This simply because all of my amplifier was sold. They had moved to their new house, of course with the new satisfy owners. One-by-one are gone until I realized, I've sold all my amplifier. If I count, it is all gone started from my simple LM3875 gainclone amplifier, Mauro Penasa design LM3886 amplifier, Elekit TU-8900 amplifier, and Parasound HCA-1206. So, I don't have anything to powering up my speakers right now. Of course, I always have a plan, but sometimes the plan is not run as expected. My new amplifier project is delayed due to the imported parts is not delivered yet. I still have to wait a month for the parts to come, not to count the making process for the new amplifier project yet. So, maybe I should be waiting for the next 3 month until the new amplifier project finished. And right now, no amplifier = no music. I only browsing from the internet, reading some reviews and looking to beautiful au...

This post is a series from my the previous post about my PCB order at pcbway.com. Please check the details on their websites  PCBway The PCB that I ordered from PCB Way is actually consisting of main board for PCM58 DAC with an op-amp output per channel for IV conversion and low-pass filter. This DAC is in non-oversampling and using shift-register for I2s input. The I2s input is chosen because it is more flexible for me to put the digital input module, either USB or SPDIF input, as long as the output from receiver module is I2s. The other PCB is for the power supply board. This power supply is consist of rectifier and capacitors, then goes to DC regulator using 2 pair of LM317 and LM337. Now let's see how good is the PCB quality ordered from PCB Way and how easy to soldering the pads with the components installed on it.

I never build my own PCB ever in my life before. I always thought making a PCB for my electronic project is difficult. It is simply by the reason that making a PCB in the old ways is troublesome. It was all started by preparing the empty plain copper board and start making the traces on the paper screen, then located and drawing the components size manually. After its done, the layout screen is print to the PCB by using an iron, which often the printing not fully attach to the PCB and need correction manually. The pain is not stopping yet; you need to soak the PCB with the printing on it to the acid (that I also don't know what kind of acid is). The acid function is to peel out the copper on the PCB that not yet covered by the printed screen. Is it done? Not yet! After it soaked and cleaned, the PCB need to drill for many holes as the components required to put on top of it, then clean it again with fine sand paper. Besides for the trouble when making the PCB, I also found for the ...

This post is about sharing my experience for the present of DC offset at the output of a DAC, especially when we build it by our own, we want to make sure it is safe to the equipment after it. Since the DAC is considerably the top-chain in the audio system, so it is important to look this issue in the first place. DC offset is a nightmare, especially when the equipment after the DAC such as preamp or the power amplifier is not using any capacitor or transformers in the signal path to blocking the DC present at the input. Just a small amount of DC, let's say 100 mV at the input of an amplifier will multiple by the gain from the amplifier, plus its current, will harm to the speaker's driver. In most cases, it will burn the driver's coil. DC is inaudible, but it moves the driver cone. It creating the heat to the woofer driver coils and burn it. It is safe for the tweeter since the capacitor included in the cross-over network inside the speakers will protect it, act as DC block...

I bought this amplifier by the end of last year and I can say this Parasound HCA-1206 is the best sounding solid-state amplifier I've ever heard. Previously, I've owned and heard many amplifiers in my own audio system. Not on others system to be clear. So, I know the difference in the sound quality. This amplifier is a keep. Although it is very heavy, about 40 kilos, but the weight is equal with its built-quality. The designer of this amplifier is one of the most famous amplifier designs: John Curl. Probably you may know that this guy also designs the amplifier for Mark Levinson. In this post, I will do some improvement with this amplifier. Let's check it out.

This year, I built again a TDA1541 DAC. This is because I still have one DAC IC spare, together with the others parts required. The main difference is the power supply circuit is now using simple discrete Darlington transistor with Zener diode as reference voltage. In this post, I will share the finishing build process, continue from the previous post. I also will compare to listen the music with or without the asynchronous circuit. Let's take a deep dive.