My PC case here don't have a cable management features. The cables are lying around in the PC case. To be honest, it is not very ugly, but doing something to make it look even better is an advantage. Then with higher price power supply are commonly have modular cables design. This modular means that the cables can be installed to the power supply as per components use in the PC. With this modular design, the PC case will looks even neat. In this post I will modify my standard PC power supply. The result is tidy just like the modular one. Please note that this project is quite difficult to follow and it is also high risk and definitely void your PSU guarantee.
Starting this upgrade, you will need a cable sleeve. Not to much, I only using less than 2 meter. This length is depends on how many cable you want to run and how do you want to sleeve the cable. Sleeve all the cable in one sleeve (just like me) is very efficient. Or you want all single cable sleeved independently? It is up to you.
The PSU is a FSP Hexa series. A good quality with 80+ certificate, yet affordable.
Opening the PSU case is easy, unbolt all 4 screws and hold at the side of the box then pull up the upper casing gently. The fan cable is attached to the upper case, so avoid it to be broken.
To completely access to the main board, you will need to soldering out the power input cable. Please always remember the cable color code for re-assembly. Black at the middle, white at the PCB side.
The small PCB lying on the top of the heat-sink is actually a fan controller module. Solder out the wire and remember the red and black cable color code as well.
Once those cable removed, the main board is now fully access and ready to work on the output cables.
Please remember the voltage marked on the main board and match up with the color code of every cable. I doing this step by solder out the wire one by one and put them inside the sleeve. At this opportunity, I also remove the cable that not in use for more minimalist cable arrangement inside the case.
I measure the need of the total cable length to avoid too much cable lying on the case. The first victim cable to cut is the SATA cable.
Don't forget to using the heat-shrink tube at the end of the sleeve to keep the sleeve on it's position all the time.
You can see this PSU upgrade is worth every penny. They are look far better now.
To re-install the cable, I need properly joint the same color cable before solder it to the main board of the PSU.
I also use the heat shrink tube at the end of the cable for better looking.
One by one, one by one.
Almost finish, the remaining cable to be sleeve is only the SATA extension cable. Please note that I cut the length of 24 pin cable. It is much shorter now.
Another cables to be sleeves is the extension cables. I just need to pull the tab in the socket with small screw driver, then the pin is now can be remove by pulling out from the socket.
Secure the terminal pin by a paper tape first.
Continue to sleeve it. This method is easier.
Re-assembly the pin to the socket and always remember the color code with the number at the socket.
Now it is all done!
The proper test is needed to avoid failure. By short the 4th with the 5th pin, now the PSU is turning on. I am using the multi-meter to check every power output are should be the same as the reference ATX power output.
After all voltage is confirm correct, now the PSU is return back to its home.
Congratulation, it is now become a very tidy case!
Disclaimer: Any statement and photos in this article are not allowed to copy or publish without written permission from the writer. Any injury or loss from following tips in this article is not under writer responsibility.
Starting this upgrade, you will need a cable sleeve. Not to much, I only using less than 2 meter. This length is depends on how many cable you want to run and how do you want to sleeve the cable. Sleeve all the cable in one sleeve (just like me) is very efficient. Or you want all single cable sleeved independently? It is up to you.
The PSU is a FSP Hexa series. A good quality with 80+ certificate, yet affordable.
Opening the PSU case is easy, unbolt all 4 screws and hold at the side of the box then pull up the upper casing gently. The fan cable is attached to the upper case, so avoid it to be broken.
To completely access to the main board, you will need to soldering out the power input cable. Please always remember the cable color code for re-assembly. Black at the middle, white at the PCB side.
The small PCB lying on the top of the heat-sink is actually a fan controller module. Solder out the wire and remember the red and black cable color code as well.
Once those cable removed, the main board is now fully access and ready to work on the output cables.
Please remember the voltage marked on the main board and match up with the color code of every cable. I doing this step by solder out the wire one by one and put them inside the sleeve. At this opportunity, I also remove the cable that not in use for more minimalist cable arrangement inside the case.
I measure the need of the total cable length to avoid too much cable lying on the case. The first victim cable to cut is the SATA cable.
Don't forget to using the heat-shrink tube at the end of the sleeve to keep the sleeve on it's position all the time.
You can see this PSU upgrade is worth every penny. They are look far better now.
To re-install the cable, I need properly joint the same color cable before solder it to the main board of the PSU.
I also use the heat shrink tube at the end of the cable for better looking.
One by one, one by one.
Almost finish, the remaining cable to be sleeve is only the SATA extension cable. Please note that I cut the length of 24 pin cable. It is much shorter now.
Another cables to be sleeves is the extension cables. I just need to pull the tab in the socket with small screw driver, then the pin is now can be remove by pulling out from the socket.
Secure the terminal pin by a paper tape first.
Continue to sleeve it. This method is easier.
Re-assembly the pin to the socket and always remember the color code with the number at the socket.
Now it is all done!
The proper test is needed to avoid failure. By short the 4th with the 5th pin, now the PSU is turning on. I am using the multi-meter to check every power output are should be the same as the reference ATX power output.
After all voltage is confirm correct, now the PSU is return back to its home.
Congratulation, it is now become a very tidy case!
Disclaimer: Any statement and photos in this article are not allowed to copy or publish without written permission from the writer. Any injury or loss from following tips in this article is not under writer responsibility.
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